Finally, the Michelin guide has finally graced the Lonestar State. On Monday, Nov. 14, the winners were announced, and 15 Texas restaurants received a Star, seven of which went to Austin-area restaurants.
As an Austinite and a foodie, I agree with several of the choices, but I’m also left scratching my head about a couple of them. Before I dig into the meat and potatoes of the winners, let’s discuss the guide’s history and influence on the food scene.
The Origins of Michelin Guide
In 1889, brothers André and Édouard Michelin founded their now-iconic tire company in Clermont-Ferrand, France. To support motorists, the brothers created a guide filled with travel tips, maps, instructions for changing a tire, and fuel locations. For 20 years, the guide was free until a visit to a tire shop, where André found copies propping up a workbench, prompted a change. According to the Michelin website, he introduced a paid version of the guide in 1920.
The guide evolved throughout the 1920s, featuring Paris hotel listings, categorizing restaurants, and removing paid advertisements. Recognizing the growing influence of its restaurant recommendations, the Michelins assembled a team of mystery diners, or “inspectors,” to anonymously review establishments. In 1926, the guide awarded its first single stars to fine dining establishments.
Throughout the 20th century, Michelin Guides became bestsellers, now rating over 40,000 establishments across 24 territories and three continents, with more than 30 million copies sold worldwide. Today, the legacy lives on, making travel, tourism, and exceptional dining experiences accessible to all.
Three Michelin Stars Go To BBQ Joints
Bringing home three of the four statewide stars, Austin barbecue joints dominated the field. I’m not mad about this since I love Texas BBQ. Except for the ribs–those can go away.
Luckily for Austinites, John Bates and Brandon Martinez decided to rebrand their already excellent deli, Noble Pig, into InterStellar Barbecue in February 2019. Making such a change from a winning deli and throwing their hat into the oversaturated Central Texas BBQ scene might have been a risk, but it paid off big time.
Bates and Martinez were awarded one Michelin star for their achievements. I’m sure they’re blown away by the results, but from now on, fans will have to camp out 24 hours in advance to get a plate of juicy brisket.
The new-ish barbecue spot LeRoy and Lewis started as a food truck parked at Cosmic Coffee and Beer Garden in 2017. They graduated from a brick-and-mortar location in South Austin earlier this year, and they serve some of the best barbecue south of the Mason-Dixon line.
With a mission statement of “new school approach with old school service,” how could they go wrong? They haven’t, and Michelin took notice. Their dedication to serving Austin by making excellent and inventive barbecue and sourcing their meat from local ranchers, coupled with stellar service, earned them their first star.
I haven’t had the opportunity to try their delicious brisket yet and decide for myself, but my sister and brother-in-law checked it out in the spring, and they both reported, “We’ve never had anything so delicious before. It was all melt-in-your-mouth good. You may have to ship some more to us.”
The third barbecue joint to earn a star is La Barbecue. This is where my head scratching comes in. I honestly don’t get it. We’ve eaten there a handful of times and always leave disappointed. The sausage is always overcooked, and the brisket, which is the backbone of Texas BBQ, is usually dry. Brisket shouldn’t need sauce; La Babecue’s does.
However, I’m not a Michelin inspector or even an official food critic. I just love food, and as a native Texan, I was baptized in the smokey pits. La Barbecue took home a star, and I’d like to think that the late LeAnn Mueller, the founder, is smiling down from heaven, a star in her own right.
Barley Swine
When I met with Bryce Gilmore, executive chef and owner of Barley Swine, last week, he had yet to win his first Michelin star. However, just a week later, the travel guide announced that one of his three restaurants had received the recognition it deserved. I saw first-hand how passionate Chef Gilmore is about cooking, his restaurants, and farming sustainability.
That passion was on full display for the Michelin inspectors. Since 2010, Gilmore and his band of chefs have been committed to showcasing the work of regional farmers and ranchers in every dish. Driven by seasonal availability and Gilmore’s creative vision, the restaurant’s evolving menu reflects the local food landscape and the passion of its kitchen team.
“Our goal is to make every dining experience unique,” said Gilmore. “Barley Swine aims to create a place where guests can gather with friends and family to celebrate food and drink, guided by the restaurant’s values of community support and hospitality.”
Hestia
One of my favorite restaurants to grace the downtown Austin food scene, Hestia is a treasure that deserves the Michelin Star. With its kitchen fire reaching 1,200 degrees, every inch and second counts. That same flame gently cooks halibut—kept three feet above the heat and served with a shimmering brown-butter glaze—while delivering a fierce char to the dry-aged Wagyu bavette, its center a sunset red. This rich beef dish pairs with buttery, croissant-like coils of potato.
The flame also finds its way into dessert, like the standout matcha kakigori. Beneath layers of lavender and rhubarb, salted cream lies a hidden scoop of burnt honey ice cream, adding a smoky depth to the frosty creation.
Olamaie
Since its 2014 opening, Olamaie has led Austin’s restaurant scene with a fresh take on Southern flavors. The creativity of the dishes, combined with the delivery of memorable dining experiences, is stellar, but it’s never left me craving more.
However, the restaurant has earned acclaim from both local and national press, winning the Austin American-Statesman’s “Best Restaurant in Austin” title in 2015, 2017, and 2019.
Founder and Executive Chef Michael Fojtasek brought Olamaie to life after refining his skills in some of the country’s top kitchens. His talents have been recognized widely, earning him a Michelin Star. His role continues to grow as he prepares to lead the kitchen for The Albert Hotel, set to open in Fredericksburg in January, strengthening his influence in both local and national hospitality circles.
Craft Omakase
I have yet to try Craft Omakase, but I’ve heard and read multiple rave reviews, and their reputation has obviously impressed the inspectors. Omakase, which means “entrust,” is a culinary journey through Japanese fine dining.
Omakase chefs make all the choices for the guests. If you’re anything like me, you’re totally cool with this concept. If you’re like my husband, you’ll hate it. This is why I haven’t had the pleasure of this culinary experience.
It offers a 22-course seasonal tasting menu, highlighting meticulously sourced ingredients and seafood. The dishes showcase Japanese culinary artistry, combining traditional preparation with modern techniques and flavors. Each course is designed to honor the essence of its ingredients, emphasizing simplicity while delivering a balanced, sensory dining experience.
*Cross Posted at Culture Hub Collective